Paul Ivic leans over the salt water. The fleshy, fused green stems rise a good 20 centimeters above the surface. Take one, bite it. He had never eaten salicorn so fresh. Salicorn is a name for glasswort, also known as sea asparagus. Wild vegetable that grows in marshes or marshes.
Ad unit content_1
This little anecdote shows how Paul Ivic, often called “the best vegetarian chef in Europe”, works. he comes out Like here in the salt fields of Nin in Croatia or in the vegetable fields – and look, marvel, taste. And he asks: What does the farmer do with his vegetables? How do you handle the soil? “Really good farmers make sure the country continues to exist,” says Ivic. “Some do it organic because there is more money. Some do it out of conviction,” says Ivic. He himself is a believer. He revolutionized vegetarian cooking because he realized with his own body that things couldn’t go on like this.
the flights leave stuttgart after Zadar With eurowings (www.eurowings.de), Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) or Austrian airlines (www.austrianairlines.com).
Luxurious pool resort by the sea: Falkensteiner Resort spa chargerdouble room from 250 euros, www.falkensteiner.com/hotel-spa-iadera.
small hotel budget with an equally good location: Dolphin Hoteldouble room from about 100 euros, https://hotel-delfin.com.hr.
Tian Bistro by the Sea is a pop-up restaurant until September 18. The sharing menu costs 79 euros per person and can be booked at the reception of the Falkensteiner Resort. Sandra Babac used to be a TV presenter, now she makes jam with organic homegrown figs. You can visit the family farm called Sinjorina Smokva in the interior of Zadar help in the garden and also live. https://de-de.facebook.com/sinjorinasmokva/.
in the solana nin 1500 certified organic salt is harvested by hand from the sea, www.solananin.hr/de/home/
Croatian National Tourist Office, https://croatia.hr/de-de NJA
Paul Ivic is someone who wants to make the world a better place. One who criticizes the big picture. He knows it’s always about the money in the end, and he says things like, “I understand it rationally, but not emotionally.”
More about the subject
For more than ten years he has been head chef of the gourmet restaurant Tian in Vienna, a vegetarian restaurant that has a Michelin star. There is now a branch of Tian in Munich, as well as a bistro concept in Vienna. And now also in Zadar.
Work where others vacation. It’s a widely used advertising slogan, especially in times of flexible work-life balances. But this marketing slogan applies in the case of Paul Ivic and his team. He has chosen a “great place” particularly for this summer. Zadar has become the city that Alfred Hitchcock said had the most beautiful sunsets in the world. In winter, Tian’s team cooked in Zürs am Arlberg, now on the Dalmatian coast.
Hitchcock raved about Zadar sunsets
Of course, it’s the same here as anywhere else: there are industrial areas with car dealerships and discount stores, Müller and McDonald’s. But there is a very different culture than around Vienna. Ivic picks sea fennel right on the coast and heads out into the fields with organic farmer Davor Matak to spontaneously pick broccoli for dinner. The family business has been in existence since 1958. Every week, their customers receive a list of what is currently ripe in the fields or in the greenhouses. He grows according to organic standards, of course. Finding the right producers was not easy. Together with Katarina Kozina Popovic from Slow Food Croatia, we went to the fields, to a fig farm or an olive grove.
“This is the first time that a restaurant in Croatia uses 100% organic food,” says Popovic. In addition, the Tian follows the “zero residue” concept, which means that everything is used up to the last leaf of broccoli.
“It’s not just about the plate on the table, it’s also about the whole contact,” says André Drechsler. Tian’s sommelier is there weeks before he opens the new restaurant and visits wine growers in the region. In the end, more than half of the 50 stalls are from Croatia, there are still Hungarian, Slovenian and Austrian wines, but none from Italy or France. “The Croats have an advantage, they have been keeping their wine in acacia barrels for a long time,” says the sommelier.
Paul Ivic, whose father is Croatian, remembers the summers of his childhood, just over an hour from Zadar near Ibenik. “It’s the best place in the world for me,” says Ivic. By that he means his grandparents’ garden, where they grow grapes and potatoes, onions and broccoli, walnut trees and mangoes. That was normal for the little boy: “I only realized late how much influence my parents and grandparents had on me.”
With Tian’s concept, he’s probably not just back in Croatia for a summer. But does that even fit? The Tian and a resort hotel? “Of course I had my doubts,” says Ivic. He looked around the place. How do you work here, what is the atmosphere like? It seems to fit. The plan is designed to last in order to establish long-term partnerships. He brought parts of his equipment with him from Vienna.
Ivic says that Croatian potatoes are the best. In the large hotel kitchen he strips the leaves off the broccoli. He wants to recreate a dish that he used to eat at his grandmother’s house. And the salicornio from the salt pans in the morning can also be found in the evening appetizers. Several small plates are placed on the table with each plate. Today this is called the concept of “sharing”. But sharing food is also something Ivic knows from her Croatian summers with his family.